An Epic India Adventure Exploring Delhi and Rajasthan
We started the year with our most adventurous travel yet, spending nearly all of January
in India. We embarked on the trip with a mix of expectations — hopes of seeing
amazing things but also some fears of feeling unsafe at times or being overwhelmed
by poverty and neediness. In the end, our unfounded fears melted away and our hopes
were exceeded by the amazing sights, sounds, tastes, and experiences that India offers.
After seeing India's fantastic forts, temples, and monuments going back many centuries,
we have to wonder how deflated the first European visitors must have felt, thinking
themselves the pinnacle of civilization on earth, only to encounter such clear refutation
of that mistaken notion.
We started in Delhi, the bustling capital city, with its broad tree-lined boulevards
filled with a cacophany of cars, buses, tuk-tuks (both motorized and pedal), motorocycles,
bicycles, pedestrians, and cows (who have supreme right of way over all).
Fortunately we were met in Delhi by our good friends Bruce and Nitin, both natives of India
who live near us in LA but were in India for a couple months taking care of family business.
Nitin grew up in Delhi and was our insider tour guide, showing us the famous sights
like Qutb Minar and
Humayan's Tomb,
and more local spots like
Lodi Gardens, the
Ugrasen stepwell,
and the Railroad Museum.
From Delhi we flew to Jodhpur where we met up with old friends Gene and Derek, who
accompanied us all over Rajasthan for the next few weeks.
In Jodhpur, we explored the
"blue city" and its impressive
Mehranghar Fort.
In Narlai, we went on a
leopard safari
and discovered a temple hidden deep in the crevice
of a giant rock.
On the road to Udaipur, we explored the 15th century
Kumbhalghar Fort
with its 38-km great wall,
and the Ranakpur Jain Temple,
a stunning intricately carved marble edifice.
In Udaipur we were charmed by the beautiful town of
lakes,
temples, and a
grand palace.
On the road to Bundi, we explored
Chittorghar,
a fortified city atop a mountain ridge with
great towers and over a thousand years of history.
In Bundi, we saw
royal cenotaphs,
an ornate stepwell that was like an inverted cathedral,
and a mountainside palace/fort with beautiful and
intricate frescoes.
In Ranthambore, we did safaris and got up
close with a tiger.
In Jaipur, we toured the great
Amer Fort,
rode an elephant,
examined a three hundred year old
astronomical observatory,
and met up with our friend Pradeep who was visiting his family.
On the road to Suroth, we stopped at a
1200-year old stepwell
that descended 13 stories into
the earth with cross-crossing staircases like a giant Escher painting.
In the village of Suroth,
we stayed in a palace and met a Rajput prince.
In Bharatpur, we stayed in another palace and explored the
Keoladeo National Park
where we saw dozens of exotic species of birds.
On the road to Agra, we visited
Fatehpur Sikri,
a beautiful no-longer-inhabited city.
In Agra, as we approached the Taj Mahal toward the end of our trip, after seeing so many
other absolutely amazing sights, we worried that our capacity for amazement might have
been dulled. Nope.
The Taj Mahal
is simply stunning, inspiring jaw-dropping wonder at
its beauty. After touring the elaborate
Agra Fort
the next day, we headed back to Delhi
for a few last days there including the market and great mosque of
Old Delhi,
and some museums and shops of
New Delhi.
All told, we saw some
amazing scenes from the road,
met friendly and colorful characters,
and experienced new marvels every day for a month. Travel gets no better than this.
(You can see all of our India trip photo albums
here.)
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A Taste of San Miguel de Allende
Over the years, the central Mexican town of San Miguel de Allende has come up on our radar
as a number of friends have visited and raved about it. Our friends Andre and Steve were so
impressed they bought a second home there a couple years ago, and when they invited us
to join them there for a week this last August, we seized the opportunity, and were glad
we did. The town is utterly charming, with a historic core of cobblestone streets and
adobe buildings in a warm palette of ochre, terracotta, and chili red, studded with some
gems of baroque Spanish architecture. It has a reputation as an artist colony and a haven
for ex-pats, making it rich in art galleries and good restaurants. Its setting at over 6,000 feet
in the mountains makes it temperate, and in August the surrounding meadows are full of
wildflowers. Andre and Steve were consummate hosts, and their "modest home" could be
featured in Architectural Digest, so we were totally spoiled by them and charmed by this place.
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Total Solar Eclipse in Austin
Having missed the last total solar eclipse in North America, Tom was determined not to let
this opportunity pass. Together with friends Chris and Carol, we made bookings a year ahead
to be in Austin, Texas to catch this one. George was a bit wary of traveling to Texas, but
we found Austin to be a
delightful city.
We had a chance to tour the Capitol building,
to see the Congress Street Bridge bats take flight at sunset, and to enjoy some of the great
restaurants there, including the famous Franklin Barbecue. As a bonus, we got to meet up with
old friends Salenna and Will and their son Andrew, who were passing through on the way to Dallas.
When the day came for the eclipse,
it appeared our carefully laid plans might be spoiled by clouds and rain, but Chris and Tom
pored over weather data, calculated wind direction and speed, and decided to head for
Meridian, Texas, a population 1400 county seat about 2 hours north of Austin, that we
reckoned to have the best chance at an opening in the clouds. We reckoned correctly, and
we all enjoyed a glorious unobstructed view of the eclipse in a lovely park (picnicking
on leftover Franklin BBQ brisket), with over 4 minutes of totality. The eclipse itself was
a surreal experience, unlike anything else, to have the world go quiet and dark and see the
stars come out at midday.
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Losing Candy
At the end of last year, we got the awful news that George's sister Candy had been
diagnosed with pancreatic cancer. That kind of cancer particularly sucks, because
it initially presents as various non-specific symptoms (she'd been suffering digestive
issues for several months prior), and by the time it is diagnosed, in most cases
it has already progressed to stage 4. She tried some chemo and other treatments in
the first few months of the year, but she just grew weaker, and before the end of June
she was gone. She passed in her own home with her husband, children, and grandchildren
all with her for her last days.
It was decided to organize a memorial service for Candy's birthday, August 31,
in the front yard of the Hadley's Redlands home, with its large central lawn which
had hosted family weddings before. That allowed some time for people to make travel
arrangements, and for all of us to grapple with the shock, anger, and grief.
It was just so hard to take it in, that someone so strong and vibrant as Candy had been,
who should have lived another 20 years to age 95 as her mother did, maybe even lived to
meet great-grandchildren, could have been taken away so quickly and too soon.
When the day came, around 250 people gathered with the family to celebrate Candy's life.
Thoughtful and supportive friends pitched in to help decorate the yard in the style
Candy would have appreciated, and added Candy signature touches like keepsake homemade
plum jam, note cards, and copies of some of her recipes.
We were so touched that so many people came to share
memories and comfort, coming from Lodi, Paradise, Sacramento, and Chico; from Oregon, Washington,
Montana, Utah, Ohio, and Virginia. A lot of tears, hugs, and stories were shared, a testament to a
life well lived and well loved.
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A Bucket List Journey to Japan With Dad and Andy
Last year on Tom's Dad's 91st birthday, George asked him if he still had anything on his
"bucket list". He thought for a moment and said "I want to take my boys to Japan".
In his career at TRW, Dad had become responsible for much of their international business,
especially with Japan. Through the 1970s, 80s, and early 90s, he traveled to Japan
every two or three months. He had good memories of the country, its culture and people,
and wanted to share that with us. So this year we worked to make that happen.
We had been interested, but George's gluten intolerance combined with his phobia for fish
made Japan a formidably challenging place for us to travel. Fortunately, we found a
travel agent who specialized exclusively in Gluten Free Japan travel, and they worked
with us to make this trip possible. Thus it was that in October the four of us made a
wonderful memorable journey to Japan.
We started in Tokyo, where we stayed at The Imperial Hotel. We sampled the food on offer
at the Tsukiji Market
(even George found one GF thing), visited the famous Shibuya scramble
crossing and Hachiko dog statue, checked out what the youngsters are wearing in
Harajuku,
prayed at the Meiji Jingu shrine, and visited the
Imperial Palace grounds
before a marvelous multi-course kaiseki dinner with Tom's old Vertel colleague Oni.
We visited a sumo stable
to watch the wrestlers practicing, went up the Tokyo Skytree Tower
for great views, donned kimonos for a
tea ceremony,
and paid our respects at Senso-ji (Tokyo's oldest temple).
Next stop was
Hakone,
a beautiful mountain hot spring resort town,
where we fulfilled Dad's wish to stay in a ryokan,
a traditional Japanese inn. Shoes were left outside the main entrance, and we were
given slippers and robes ("yukata") to wear while inside the hotel where breakfast
and a country-style multi-course dinner were provided. The hotel had its own onsen
(hot spring baths), and we also visited some public baths that were outdoors
with forest views.
From Hakone the shinkansen (bullet train) whisked us to Kyoto where we had a
marvelous teppanyaki dinner and saw the
Yasaka shrine
with lanterns all lit up at night.
Our first full day in Kyoto was rainy, but we still visited an impressive
Buddhist temple
(Higashi Hongan-ji) and nearby garden (Shosei-en).
The second day was lovely as we all enjoyed the
Arashiyama
bamboo grove and the adjacent
world heritage Buddhist temple and garden (Tenryu-ji), as well as the famous
golden Pavilion
(Kinkaku-ji), before having a Michelin-starred
kaiseki dinner
to celebrate a milestone birthday for Andy.
Our last full day in Kyoto we packed in the
Fushimi Inari Taisha
(thousand vermillion torii gates on a mountain of shrines) and
Nara Park,
home to a giant Buddha statue, a world heritage shrine, and a population
of semi-tame deer.
Our last morning in Kyoto, we visited the hilltop
Kiyomizudera shrine
and walked down along the steep ancient pedestrian shop streets that lead to it.
We journeyed to
Takayama,
a picturesque mountain village in the "Japanese Alps"
which has a Edo era historic center, and also the Hida no Sato "open air museum",
a collection of relocated houses from centuries past where they demonstrate
the historic country lifestyle of that region.
In Kanazawa, we explored
Kanazawa Castle,
the adjacent Kenroku-en garden (considered one of Japan's top three gardens),
the historic tea-house district
where geishas (or "geikos" as they were called in this region)
once lived and worked, and the
samurai house district.
Back in Tokyo we made a couple of marvelous day trips, first to
Nikko,
a mountain village with the magnificent Toshogu Shrine,
the burial site of the founder of the powerful Tokugawa shogun clan.
In Kamakura,
we visited the giant Buddha statue at Kotoku-in,
met Tom's old Vertel colleague Kubo for lunch, and stopped to pray
at the thousand-year old Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine.
On our last morning, we explored
Shinjuku
where we saw Godzilla and a giant cat.
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Our 2024 At A Glance |
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We spent nearly all of January in India.
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JAN |
We celebrated George's birthday with Gene and Derek in New Delhi, with a modern Indian tasting menu at Dhilli at the Oberoi Hotel.
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Tom arranged for George's actual birthday to last 37.5 hours, although 19 hours were spent in a Qatar Air business class Q-suite.
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FEB |
Carol and Chris treated us to Astra Lumina, a beautiful light and sound exhibit set up in the South Coast Botanic Gardens at night.
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We attended Tessa's performance (voice, guitar, and loop) at Scribble in Highland Park, her first time re-engaging with music since her transition.
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We celebrated Tom's birthday Saturday with Carol & Chris seeing Matthew Bourne's Romeo & Juliet at the Ahmanson, with dinner at Abernethy x Post & Beam.
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We celebrated Tom's family birthday dinner at Cassia in Santa Monica with Dad, Andy, and Wendy.
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We celebrated a February birthdays dinner with Steve Roth, Anil, and Achal at Bavel in DTLA Arts District.
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We attended the Frieze/LA art exhibition, as fantastic for people-watching as it is for art.
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MAR |
Our hearts went out to the Stern family upon hearing of the passing of Bev -- wife, mother, and grandmother, and adoptive "other mother" of countless lucky people. She was the mother of my friend and college roommate Hal, and one of those people with a smile that lights the world, and a warmth that makes you feel like she's your Mom too.
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Roland and Daniel came to visit for a low-key hang-out weekend.
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APR |
We met up with Salenna, Will, and Andrew in Austin to enjoy a picnic of Franklin barbecue, before touring the state capitol and looking for bats under the Congress Street Bridge.
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We experienced a clear view of the total solar eclipse from the town of Meridian, Texas.
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Catherine and Rich came to visit for a low-key weekend. Dinners at Bacetti, Bistro 45, and Langer's.
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We went out to Redlands to visit Candy, and George fixed kloesse, a favorite "German grandmother" food with dumplings, potatoes, onions, cream, and obscene amounts of butter.
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We, along with Dad and Andy, went out to Borrego Springs for a visit with the Taylor clan. This year Markus, Brad and Cindy are there too.
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Wendy joined us to experience the Luna Luna art exhibition in the DTLA Arts District.
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MAY |
For a birthday gift for Katie, we joined a bunch of Karmeliches to see A Chorus Line at the Chuck Norris Theatre. At lunch afterward, Mark takes a picture of Brian taking a picture of me taking a picture of my food.
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For Bill's birthday, we went out to brunch at La Grande Orange and then to the Pasadena Showcase House.
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Fred and Jay invited us to dinner at the Founder's room for the LA Opera opening night of Turandot (with David Hockney sets), and the reception afterward.
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We went to Redlands to visit Candy. While there, we help harvest blackberries at the Z&T Hadley Farm. (We didn't know that this would be our last time seeing Candy.)
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JUN |
We attended the wedding of Christina (Andy's step-daughter) and Cory at Patty and Dean's Nipomo ranch house.
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The Nipomo wedding was a great excuse to visit James and Susie in Arroyo Grande, who graciously hosted us for the weekend.
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The day after Candy passed, we went out to Redlands to be with all the Hadley family.
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We attended a charity event to support ORAM for World Refugee Day. ORAM's mission is to support LGBTQ+ refugees and asylum seekers worldwide. We were joined by RJ, Peter & Scott, Amy & Judith, Tom & Art, Tessa & Linh.
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With Nitin and Bruce, we enjoyed a dinner at Clyde and Jean-Luc's new DTLA home, then we all walked over to the Dance DTLA Bollywood night on the Music Center Plaza.
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On the 4th of July, we enjoyed a neighborhood barbecue at Kamy & Brian's, then after dark we all went over to Sarah & Lisette's new rooftop deck for a view of fireworks all over town.
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JUL |
Over the 4th weekend, we met Mark & Heather for breakfast in Manhattan Beach (Uncle Bill's Pancake House) and a walk on the beach path.
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Our cruise friends Paul & Laurie appeared on HGTV Christina on the Coast getting a home makeover from their daughter.
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We celebrated Wendy's birthday with family dinner at AOC Brentwood.
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We enjoyed Nelson's annual picnic at the Hollywood Bowl for Disney 80s/90s night.
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We watched the Paris Olympics with special interest, since we have met one of the athletes. Mark's cousin Martin Dolenc, whom we met in Croatia, is an Olympic kite-surfer.
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We made a quick trip up to Sacramento for Frank's father's memorial service.
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AUG |
We had Sunday family dinner on the balcony of Wendy's new place, with Dad, Andy, and Lucky (who can't be left alone these days).
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We spent an enchanting week in San Miguel de Allende, in central Mexico, at the invitation of Andre and Steve.
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A couple hundred family and friends gathered in Redlands to celebrate the life of George's sister Candy, who would have been 76 this day.
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Anil, Achal, Nitin & Bruce, George & I all donned our best 70s attire for the Abba tribute band at the Hollywood Bowl.
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SEP |
We celebrated Chris & Carol's 33rd wedding anniversary with dinner at Redbird.
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Tom's cousin Jim, whom he hadn't seen in person in 40+ years, came to visit with his wife Pat. We had a great time getting (re)acquainted and sampling LA's restaurant scene.
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When Bruce & Greg were in town, we met for a lovely dinner in Frogtown with them and Steven.
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When Ann Marie and Patrick were in town, we had them along with Koert & Karin over for brunch.
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OCT |
We celebrated Carol's birthday with dinner at Drago Centro before seeing Green Day's American Idiot at the newly reopened Mark Taper.
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The second half of October was our bucket list tour of Japan.
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NOV |
We went out to the desert for Palm Springs Pride festival, and to spend an enjoyable weekend at Charles & Scott's, and with Nitin & Bruce.
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We needed a new dog-friendly venue for Thanksgiving, so Wendy found us Solidarity, a Polish restaurant in Santa Monica with a lovely patio, where we enjoyed turkey, pumpkin pie, pierogies, and kielbasa.
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Our Chicago cousins - Elizabeth, Ross, Nina, Samantha, and Olivia - were in LA for Thanksgiving so we had a nice visit with them in their Laurel Canyon AirBnB.
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We attended the Glendale City Church Christmas concert, always a great way to put us in the mood for the season.
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DEC |
We met Mark and Heather for dinner at Bashi at the Terranea Resort in Palos Verdes, with spectacular coastal views and a cute gingerbread Christmas village.
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We enjoyed the GMCLA Christmas concert (some impressive dancing sugar plum fairies) with Bill & Leo, and a lovely dinner at their house afterward.
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George spotted a Townsend's warbler in our backyard fountain. After 24 years in this house, we can still add to our life list from our own backyard!
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We celebrated Chatt family Christmas together with Dad, Andy, Wendy, Chris and Carol. And Lucky, of course.
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We celebrated Hadley-Shultz family Christmas together with Allison, Nathan, Max, Lily, Dean, and Zach.
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We had a few friends over for a Boxing Day potluck dinner.
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We celebrated Hanukkah on Sunday with Dad, Andy, Wendy, and Lucky. And latkes, brisket, and chicken soup with kreplach.
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Watch This Space For Year-End Updates
Coming soon: 2024 in review in food, movies, books, stage, art, politics, and technology.
(Well, not so much stage, movies, or art this year, but lots to say about the rest!)
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2024 In Food
2024 was another great year for food. Our travels took us to many delicious as well as
fascinating places. In India, we learned that Rajasthani cuisine features a number of
traditionally gluten-free breads,
like missi roti (spiced chickpea flour flatbread) or
bajra ki roti (millet flatbread), and south Indian favorites like dosa
(a savory rice-chickpea flour crepe) and uttapam (a thicker dosa with toppings)
are also gluten-free friendly. In Austin, we enjoyed Tex-Mex and a great restaurant scene
there (shout out to
Canje and
Suerte),
and got to try the legendary
Franklin Barbecue.
In San Miguel de Allende, we found another great foodie town in the mountains of
central Mexico, and we were there at just the right season to enjoy
chiles en nogada
(stuffed chiles in walnut sauce with pomegranate arils).
In Japan, we got to enjoy many traditional Japanese foods such as
kaiseki
(a multi-course dinner highlighting seasonal foods)
including a Michelin star take,
ryokan fare
(hearty multi-course country inn meals),
tempura,
teppanyaki,
yakiniku
(self-grilling),
yakitori
(bar food, mostly on skewers),
ramen,
okonomiyaki
(a hearty cabbage-and-meat grilled pancake),
karaage
(Japanese fried chicken),
and Japanese curry
(which is a distinct flavor, spicy but more brown gravy-like),
as well as sampling the food stalls at the famous
Tsukiji market.
Back home in Los Angeles, we devoured the unending feast on offer here.
Our own neighborhood saw some exciting new restaurants open including
Hummingbird Ceviche House
(Peruvian fish-forward small bites from Chef Ricardo Zarate),
Azizam
(a fresh Persian cafe with not-the-same-old Persian food, like a kofteh tabrizi meat-and-rice ball stuffed with dried fruit and walnuts),
Dada
(a food speak-easy with a hidden entrance and a hidden menu),
Tacolina
(farm-fresh Baja style cuisine), and
A Ti
(a pop-up doing "elevated Mexican bar food" that we hope will stick around).
Around the city, we found some new-ish and new-to-us eateries including
Cassia
(critically acclaimed southeast Asian brasserie in Santa Monica),
Cabra
(modern Peruvian from Chef Stephanie Izzard of Girl & Goat fame, in a fun space on The Hoxton Hotel rooftop on Broadway in DTLA),
Mother Tongue
(Hollywood rooftop with globally inspired cuisine), and
Mirate
(modern Mexican in Los Feliz).
We discovered some ethnic gems like
La Diosa de los Moles in Bell
(who knew there were dozens of kinds of moles, the Mexican pesto of spices, seeds, and nuts) and
Big Boi in Sawtelle,
serving up Filipino comfort food with vegan options.
At the Hollywood Farmers Market, Tom discovered
Kirari West Bakery,
who brings some great gluten-free Japanese-style sandwich bread.
We visited the bakery down in Redondo Beach, where they have a cafe
with a quite decent gluten-free Reuben sandwich.
For pre-theatre dinners, we enjoyed
Abernethy's
on the Music Center plaza, where Chef John Cleveland of Post & Beam was being
featured this season, as well as
Asterid (Chef Ray Garcia) and
Agua Viva (Chef José Andres).
Over at the Pasadena Playhouse, our go-to choice has become the creative food stylings at
Bar Chelou.
For family dinners, as Tom's father's dog has become too anxious to be left alone,
we've learned where the "dog friendly" restaurants are, like
The Raymond in Pasadena,
Manuela in DTLA, and a new fave
Solidarity,
a Polish restaurant in Santa Monica where we also celebrated
Thanksgiving.
We were sad to dine for the last time at restaurants that closed this past year, including
Jewel
(a creative modern Asian vegan spot in Virgil Village) and
de Buena Planta,
a really good vegan Mexican in Silver Lake with a great patio which we only discovered
the week that they were closing. Our hearts were completely broken by the loss of
one of our longtime favorites,
Brera Ristorante,
a modern Tuscan in a cool high-vaulted factory conversion in DTLA Arts District.
We missed the off-menu farinata (a Tuscan chickpea crepe) that they stopped doing
during the pandemic, but they would always make George his
favorite mushroom risotto,
even if it wasn't on the regularly changing menu.
On the upside, we began the year with news that our beloved
Pazzo Gelato
in Silver Lake came to terms with the landlord and was able to renew their lease
so they remain open.
When we're not eating out, Tom still cooks at home four nights a week based on what he's found
at the Hollywood Farmers Market on Sunday morning. Occasionally, he'll try to get home early
and take on something special, like
stuffed grape leaves
in May when our vines have tender leaves
on them, or handmade
gnocchi al pesto
in the summer when basil leaves are prime. This year
he tried his hand at
Ethiopian food,
including homemade injera (the large sour crepes),
which turned out quite well.
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2024 On Screen
We started the year catching the 2024 Oscar frontrunners that inevitably spill into the new year.
In American Fiction (best picture nominee),
Jeffrey Wright (best actor nominee) portrays a black writer who, when his publisher gently suggests that his
writing isn't "black enough", creates a pseudonymous satirical parody of popular black lit,
which backfires and becomes a top hit.
In Nyad,
Annette Benning (best actress nominee) embodies the force of will and force of nature that is
Diana Nyad as she attempts to swim from Havana to Florida.
In Rustin,
Colman Domingo (best actor nominee) shows us the untold story of Bayard Rustin,
a civil rights activist, friend and advisor to Dr Martin Luther King, Jr., and
organizer of the 1963 March on Washington, who fought for discrimination on account of his race
while being discriminated against on account of his sexual orientation.
The Monk and The Gun
(Nepal's submission for international feature film) was a charming story of a young monk
serving a spiritual leader in a remote Nepal village who gets innocently crossed up
with some international arms dealers.
Perfect Days
(international feature nominee from Japan) portrays the Zen-like life of a janitor
servicing public restrooms in Tokyo, proving that beauty and satisfaction can be found
in the most unexpected ways.
We eagerly watched The Last Repair Shop
(winner, documentary short film), which featured an old friend of George's as one of two
musical instrument repair technicians serving the entire Los Angeles Unified School District.
The Oscar Nominated Animated Short Films
were a good crop though mostly serious, touching on hejabs, the Holocaust, and the
last day of World War I.
March and April brought quite a strong run of films, starting with
Problemista,
with writer-director-lead Julio Torres as a young unfailingly optimistic immigrant in New York City
chasing the hope of employment sponsorship from a relentlessly exacting art exhibitor
(fiercely played by Tilda Swinton).
One Life
tells the fascinating true story of a young Englishman in WWII who goes to great lengths
to get Jewish children out of Czechoslovakia in the weeks and days before Hitler invades
(with great performances from Anthony Hopkins and Helena Bonham Carter).
Wicked Little Letters
is a wicked little delight with Olivia Coleman as a prim spinster and Jessie Buckley as her
foul-mouthed neighbor, in a 1920s period piece about a petty scandal in an English seaside town.
We Grown Now
is heartwrenching visual poetry, the tender bittersweetness and nostalgic wonder of Stand By Me,
the honest examination of Black American experience like A Raisin in the Sun, and some love for Chicago
with a couple of winks at Ferris Bueller's Day Off (though none of those comparisons captures it).
Spring also brought us Luca Guadagnino's very sexy
Challengers,
with Zendaya, Josh O'Connor, and Mike Faist as three rising young tennis stars with a complicated relationship.
Memorial Day kicked off the summer season with two light-but-fun action romances.
In The Fall Guy,
Ryan Gosling plays a stunt man working for director Emily Blunt on an action-thriller-sci-fi-romance
when real life starts competing with the film-within-the-film for hearts and thrills.
(This film is also an unabashed petition to the Academy to finally create an Oscar for stunt work.)
Hit Man was also great fun
in this Richard Linklater helmed film-noir-romance-murder-mystery starring Glen Powell as a fake hit man
working for the New Orleans Police, harkening Double Indemnity and Body Heat.
We shifted gears with
Ghostlight,
a quietly moving ode to the power of theatre to bring unexpected healing, when a laid-off
construction worker with anger management issues finds himself unexpectedly playing Romeo
in a community theatre production.
Robot Dreams
is an unexpectedly beautiful story about companionship, relationships, and life's unexpected turns,
told without any dialogue, just expressively drawn anthropomorphic animal (and robot) characters
set in a gorgeously drawn New York City.
Thelma
was a fun romp in which a feisty 93-year old grandmother (June Squibb) gets swindled by a phone scammer,
but then seeks revenge.
Crossing
follows a retired Georgian schoolteacher who goes to Istanbul to seek reconciliation with her long-lost niece
who was rejected by her parents as a trans-woman.
Sebastian is the fascinating story of a young aspiring writer in London
who dabbles in sex work in order to gain some life experience worth writing about, but
then finds his double life increasingly hard to maintain.
Didi is a 13-year old boy trying to figure out
how to fit in as a teenage American boy growing up in San Jose with an older sister, his Taiwanese immigrant
single mother, and his grandmother.
The end of summer brought a real gem in
My Old Ass,
a heartwarming and heartrending film about a free-spirited young girl who tries magic mushrooms
on her 18th birthday, and ends up meeting her 39-year old future self.
In November, the race for the Oscars kicked off in high gear.
In A Real Pain,
Kieran Culkin and Jesse Eisenberg are cousins who re-connect on a Holocaust tour of Poland to honor
their late grandmother. Culkin is incandescent as a manic-depressive who is hiding some real pain
and at times can be a real pain. The artful glimpses of Poland were a bonus.
Conclave
was a thoroughly enjoyable political intrigue set in the context of a conclave to choose the next Pope
after the untimely death of a controversial Pope. Stanley Tucci and Jon Lithgow are cardinals ambitious
to keep the conservative wing from seizing control, while Ralph Fiennes is awesome as the cardinal
reluctantly leading the proceedings. Many great plot twists, some of which I anticipated, but not the
very last one.
Anora
is the story of an erotic dancer who gets picked up by the playboy son of a Russian oligarch, they fall
for each other and get married but the parents disapprove and now the whole Russian mob is after them.
I was expecting something part Pretty Woman and part fugitive young lovers, but it was not at all what
I was expecting. Mikey Madison gives a good performance as the feisty title character.
Whatever hype you've heard about
Wicked is absolutely worth it.
Cynthia Erivo and Ariana Grande are both fantastic, and the film expands on the great stage musical
with a bit more story and spectacular visuals. Totally loved it.
Will & Harper
is a fascinating documentary about Will Farrell and his friend and SNL writer colleague Harper,
a late-in-life trans woman. After Harper transitions and comes out to Will, they decide to take a
road trip across America. Before transitioning, Harper, originally from Iowa, always enjoyed road trips
into the heartland, dining at truck stops and drinking at country bars. Now she wants to revisit those
places post-transition. Will is along for the ride, for support, and to renew their friendship.
It's honest and real and we enjoyed it.
Queer
is based on a pseudo-autobiographical novel by William S. Burroughs, a 1950s writer of the Beat Generation.
Daniel Craig plays the Burroughs character, a queer writer smoking, drinking, and doing drugs and men
in Mexico City, when he meets the enigmatic Eugene Allerton (Drew Starkey) who may or may not be queer.
Director Luca Guadanigno (Call me By Your Name) does a great job visualizing the protagonist's emotions
and experiences, including an ayahuasca trip in the jungle of Ecuador.
I see Best Actress prospects in the film
Maria, as
Angelina Jolie personifies the original diva Maria Callas toward the end of her life, living mostly in
reflections of her past and delusions of a possible comeback, partly fueled by questionable pharmaceuticals.
Jolie is absolutely flawless in bringing to life the woman who defined the concept of a diva.
I predict a Best Actor in
A Complete Unknown, where
Timothée Chalamet embodies a young Bob Dylan, first getting his start in the folk music scene,
befriending early heroes Woodie Guthrie and Pete Seeger, and having a sparks-and-storms relationship
with Joan Baez, before following his instincts into a stew of country, blues, and rock to season his
music, much to the shock and scandal of his early folk-purist supporters.
Chalamet portrays him faithfully, a magnetic ellipsis of a lyrical genius with little regard for anyone
or anything else other than the brilliant music bursting out of him. (There are a handful of Supporting
Actor/Actress contenders here too, with Ed Norton, Monica Barbaro, and Elle Fanning as an early girlfriend
drawn to him like a moth to a flame.)
Pedro Almodóvar wants us to talk about death in
The Room Next Door,
starring Tilda Swinton as a war correspondent with a horrible diagnosis, and Julianne Moore
as the friend accompanying her in her last days. A couple of great performances, without any
violins or heartstrings, just sober conversations about looking back on one's life and making
decisions with limited options.
In Babygirl,
we kind of squirmed as we watched Nicole Kidman playing a high-powered CEO exploring S&M
in a highly inappropriate relationship with an office intern.
At the end of the year, we also got invited to a rough-cut screening of a film set to be
released next year called
The Queen's Jewels,
a rollicking pirate treasure hunt with Indiana Jones / National Treasure kind of energy.
(Random LA story: the executive producer is a neighbor of our cousin Wendy. It was fun getting
invited to the screening event at a cool screening space in the SAG-AFTRA building.)
On the small screen, we were entertained, but nothing particularly defined the year.
We binged several serials, all of them continuations of old favorites.
Bridgerton
was back to form with Austenesque romantic intrigue in Regency England,
with season 3 focused on Colin and Penelope: will they or won't they marry?
will Lady Whistledown finally be unmasked? Good writing and strong plot are certainly
married here to opulent visuals — costumes, stately homes and gardens,
themed balls, and appealing bodies.
Heartstopper's third season
continued the endearing high school romance of Nick (Kit Connor) and Charlie (Joe Locke), developed other
relationships among their gang of friends, and faced various challenges including
an eating disorder, an unaccepting parent, and looming choices about going to college
next year.
We continued to be charmed by
Emily In Paris,
in her fourth season, as Emily (Lily Collins) puts Alfie and chef Gabriel behind her (or does she?),
all while juggling office drama, wearing fabulous outfits, and showcasing
the romantic scenery of Paris (and now maybe Rome?).
In the third and final season of
Young Royals,
Prince Wilhelm (Edvin Ryding) and Simon (Omar Rudberg) play out their tempestuous relationship
in their final year at the private school which may or may not be closing in scandal.
(George may have lost patience with Wille and Simon, and may not have finished the season.)
One new show that Tom enjoyed was
The Boyfriend,
which he binged on the flight to Japan. It's a 10-episode Japanese reality show,
where 9 gay or bisexual men live in a big house and work a coffee truck, and discuss
their search for a relationship. It was a fascinating window on the state of gay acceptance
in present-day Japan, and for me, a window just on Japanese society in general.
One television event that did hold more interest for us than we expected was the
2024 Paris Olympics.
Our interest was kickstarted by actually knowing one of the athletes (one of our friend's cousins
whom we met last year in Croatia competed in the kite-sailing event). That
strange-but-spectacular opening ceremony hooked us in. We watched traditional favorites
like diving and gymnastics, and marveled at unfamiliar sports like kite-sailing and
speed climbing (so crazy to watch!). There were moments of great achievement, like the Lithuanian
discus thrower who broke an Olympic record set by his own father, a record that had stood for
20 years. Alas, his new record was broken only moments later. There were moments of great
sportmanship, winners comforting their losing rivals. There was the triumph of the US women's
gymnastics team lead by Simon Biles, and the confusion over the bronze medal that Jordan Chiles
may or may not have won.
And there were just unforgettable
moments like the French pole vaulter who was foiled by being too well endowed.
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2024 On Stage
We continued to support LA theatre with a full subscription to the Center Theatre Group,
with the big news in the fall that the Mark Taper Theatre is once again open.
We began the year with
Matthew Bourne's Romeo & Juliet.
Matthew Bourne's choreography never fails to be breathtaking, and when combined with a creative
reimagining of Shakespeare's Romeo & Juliet set to Prokofiev's dramatic score, the result is riveting.
In April, we enjoyed the powerhouse performance of Katerina McCrimmon as Fanny Brice in the revival of
Funny Girl.
In June, we were treated to the 2022 Tony Award Best Musical
A Strange Loop,
which is a strange loop indeed.
This meta-musical is a play about a fat gay black writer trying to write a play about a fat gay black writer
trying to write a play about ... well, you get the idea. Before A Strange Loop, one could scarcely imagine
how many internalized phobias, how much baggage a fat gay black theatre-geek wannabe writer might be carrying
around. But now you don't have to, because this play shows you all the baggage in explicit (sometimes
painfully explicit) vivid detail, leavened by energetic music and clever funny lyrics.
August brought us a delightful comedy murder mystery in
Clue.
Based on the well-known board game, all of the characters like Colonel Mustard and Professor Plum
are lured to a mysterious mansion, where they are trapped and have to figure out who is slowly
killing them all off. The farce is strong in this one.
In October, we were thrilled to return to the Mark Taper Forum to see Green Day's
American Idiot,
a vivid staging of this electric rock musical.
At the LA Opera, we were delighted to see their sumptuous production of
Turandot.
The magnificent cast was lead by house-shaking soprano Angela Meade, the honey-rich tenor Russell Thomas
as Karaf, and vibrant soprano Guanqun Yu who moved us to tears as Liu. (We had enjoyed seeing both
Russell Thomas and Guanqun Yu a few years ago here in Mozart's The Clemency of Titus.) An expanded
chorus voiced the hopes and fears of the people of Peking sensationally (of course we're partial
since we know so many choristers). The sets, designed by David Hockney, were fantastic.
The Pasadena Playhouse continued to have some great offerings too.
We really enjoyed
One of the Good Ones,
a "Guess Who's Coming to Dinner" for our times. When a young adult Latina daughter brings home
her boyfriend to meet her parents, everyone is in for one surprise or another, in this very thoughtful
and very funny dissection of racial and ethnic identity, layered on good old fashioned family dynamics.
And we also enjoyed their production of
La Cage Aux Folles,
with Cheyenne Jackson as nightclub owner Georges.
We also had experienced a small theatre gem in May,
The Rhythm of Mourning
at the Bethesda Repertory Theatre.
On a bare stage with minimal props, a strong cast, with some subtle but effective lighting, costume,
and choreography, tells a powerful story about loss and grief.
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2024 In Art
After enjoying the Frieze LA art show so much last year, we went back again this year,
even though we had to pay our own way (it's not inexpensive) unlike last year when we had an invite.
It's totally worth it though. All of the big name galleries are there, with an eye-popping
ensemble of artwork on display.
Some of the most captivating this year were portraits. Miami-based artist Hernan Bas
had a series of young men drinking absinthe. Nigerian artist Collins Obijiaku had some
striking portraits of Nigerian women. And a take on the last supper by the late Trinidadian
artist Geoffrey Holder was fascinating. But there were all sorts of sculpture and abstracts
and other genres too. And as before, the people-watching is as good as the art on display.
You see striking fashions. And that woman in the black-and-white plaid coat and hat doing a
classic Diane Keaton look? That was Diane Keaton.
What a delightful experience to see Luna Luna this spring. We were just grinning the whole time.
If you haven't heard about it, it was an art carnival staged in 1987 featuring a panoply of artists
from Salvador Dali, David Hockney, and Roy Liechtenstein to Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat,
and many others. It was meant to tour, but never did, and was lost for 35 years and only recently
rediscovered and restored. The whole carnival was set up in a big warehouse in the DTLA Arts District.
While you couldn't actually ride the rides, it was delightful just to see them.
The event included a carnival wedding booth, so George and I got married again.
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2024 In Books
One book that we both read this year was
The Old Gays Guide to the Good Life: Lessons Learned About Love and Death, Sex and Sin, and Saving the Best for Last.
In the last few years, our friend Jessay Martin had stumbled into becoming a YouTube/TikTok star,
along with several of his Palm Springs neighbors who became
The Old Gays.
This book is part autobiography and part life philosophy from each of the five "old gays",
and together it provides an interesting window on the evolution of gay culture and gay life
through the decades when these men were coming out and living out.
While we're not quite as old as they are, we're old enough to relate to a lot of their experiences
and appreciate them.
Aside from that, this year was pretty sparse in books for Tom, who after learning Hindi,
had to shift gears and learn Japanese, so most of his "reading time" was taken up with
Pimsleur language courses.
George, on the other hand, has discovered audiobooks this year, and often "reads" on his long walks
through Elysian Park. He started looking for gay romantic fiction, found the author
Anthony McDonald,
and has gone no further. This year, he has devoured a good dozen of his novels!
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2024 In Politics
Globally, Israel and Gaza dominated headlines, as Israel's military reaction to the Oct 7 Hamas massacre
of last year extended into its second year and is still ongoing, with 62 remaining hostages believed
to be alive and 34 reported dead but not recovered. Israel cleared northern Gaza, urging 1 million
Palestineans to relocate to southern Gaza, then directed all of them to relocate into Rafah as the
last "safe" place, and then ultimately bombed Rafah (against US objections). An additional 23,000
Palestineans have been killed this year, bringing the total death toll to 45,000, the majority of which are
reported to be women and children. At this point, practically the entire population has been forcibly displaced,
living in dire conditions, with starvation and exposure threatening to kill those who have so far
evaded being killed by bombing or shelling. Between Israeli restrictions and lack of security, it has
been impossible for aid organizations to deliver sufficient food and medical supplies.
In April, a World Central Kitchen convoy bringing aid was destroyed by Israeli drones.
Despite US efforts in conjunction with Yemen and Egypt to get
Israel and Hamas to agree to a cease-fire, that goal was ultimately elusive.
Military action expanded across the Middle East, as Israel responded to Iranian-backed Hezbollah attacks
by targeting the Israeli consulate in Damascus, Hezbollah's leadership in Lebanon,
and Hamas political leader Ismael Haniyeh, who was killed by drone strike in Tehran.
Iran responded on two occasions with large-scale missile barrage against Israel,
which was largely repelled by Israeli and American defense systems.
The significant diminishment of Hezbollah and Iranian proxies in Syria (as well as Iran itself),
combined with Russia's distraction in Ukraine,
created an opening for Turkish-backed rebels in northern Syria to launch an offensive
that lead to the surprising collapse of the Assad regime, which had been in power since 1963.
This is the one possible glimmer of hope from the Middle East. The overthrow of a brutal autocrat
is reason for celebration, and the group that captured Damascus, though formally declared a
terrorist organization, appears so far to be acting very responsibly and aiming to set up
a proper government with broad participation and religious freedom.
Elsewhere, Ukraine slogged into the third year of its war with Russia, making some incursions
into Russian territory, while losing ground in its own eastern front, with high casualties on both sides,
and no end in sight. Sweden formally joined NATO this year, following Finland last year.
Anti-incumbent sentiment swept elections worldwide, with German and French governments both
seeing votes of no confidence after far-right party gains, while England fired its Conservative
government and put Labor back in power. Japan and South Africa both saw parties that had been
in control for decades lose their majorities.
Venezuela held an election in which autocrat Nicolas Maduro declared himself the winner
despite substantial proof that he actually lost the election by a substantial margin.
Sadly, Maduro remains in control while the real winner has sought asylum in Spain to avoid arrest.
Domestically, the big story was the US presidential election.
On the GOP side, several contenders including Ron DeSantis,
Nikki Haley, and Vivek Ramaswamy formally challenged Donald Trump,
but Ron DeSantis dropped out after Trump ran away with the Iowa caucus in January,
and Nikki Haley dropped out after "super Tuesday" in March when it became clear
that Republicans wanted the twice-impeached and multiply-indicted former president to run again.
For the Democrats, incumbent president Joe Biden insisted he would run again,
and faced no significant challenge in the primaries.
That seemed like a good idea in March, when an energetic Joe Biden gave a feisty State of the Union
speech, including strong impromptu responses to hecklers.
Unfortunately, it wasn't until late June at the first presidential debate that we learned that
the 81-year old president has good days and bad days, and the bad days can be pretty bad.
The Joe Biden who showed up to that debate was feeble and disoriented, immediately raising
questions about his fitness for another term and whether (and how) he should be replaced on the
ticket, given that most primaries had already taken place, and the convention was less than 8 weeks away.
In the meantime, Trump had been convicted of 34 felony counts related to his hush money payments to
Stormy Daniels, was grazed by a bullet in an attempted assassination at a rally, and was
officially proclaimed the Republican candidate a few days later at the GOP convention.
After an agonizing several weeks, Biden was finally persuaded to step down, giving his support
to Vice-President Kamala Harris. Democrats felt a surge of energy, as it felt like a page was
being turned. Despite questions about process, Harris worked to secure the delegate votes,
and the Democratic convention in August felt like a triumphal affair.
At the September debate (the first and only between Harris and Trump), Harris came on strong
and was generally declared the better performer, while Trump doubled down on the crazy talk
(e.g., Haitian immigrants eating other people's pets) and was live fact-checked multiple times.
Nonetheless Harris ultimately failed to connect with and motivate enough voters.
Trump won with ample electoral margin (312-226), and with more votes than Harris although
less than an outright majority due to third party candidates. The Republicans regained their
majority in the Senate, and though losing seats in the House, barely retained their majority there.
Since the election, Trump has been floating cabinet nominations, some of which are plausible,
though several of which may be difficult even for fellow Republicans to swallow. Matt Gaetz,
disgraced Florida representative, was pre-nominated for Attorney General but has already withdrawn
in the wake of a damning House Ethics Committee report. Robert F. Kennedy Jr., notable for his
quackish views on vaccines, has been nominated for Secretary of Health and Human Services.
Tulsi Gabbard, notable for a questionable visit to Syria showing support for the Assad regime
while stating she could see no difference between any of the various rebel factions there,
has been nominated as Director of National Intelligence. And Kash Patel, who has a published
"deep state enemies list", has been nominated to lead the FBI, presumably in pursuing retribution
against Trump's enemies. We've also been treated to a preview of the return to chaos that we
can expect in a second Trump term: when the House attempted to pass an 11th hour continuing
resolution in order to avoid a government shutdown, based on a bipartisan compromise,
"first buddy" Elon Musk and Trump started a tweet-storm that nearly derailed the whole thing.
After Trump issued a new demand that the bill would also eliminate the debt ceiling,
Speaker Johnson dutifully brought it, but that bill failed. They finally passed a third bill
that was substantially the same as the first bill, while Musk and Trump inexplicably declared a victory.
Since then, Trump has been calling for taking back the Panama Canal, annexing Canada,
and buying Greenland — all items that literally nobody had on their agenda but he's
seen fit to devote his time (or at least his virtual hot air) to. We're quite apprehensive
about what 2025 will bring in terms of our nation and the world, but will hope for the best.
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2024 In Technology
We are generally late to the party for new tech, and one not-so-new thing that we finally caught
up with this year is using our iPhones for payment. We'd done it once in a rare while before,
but it was accelerated by our trip to Japan. When traveling Japan, one of the most useful things
to have is something called an e-SUICA card on your iPhone, which can be used to electronically
pay your fare on trains and subways all over. Just tap your iPhone at the turnstile and you're
on your way. Moreover, a fair number of convenience shops,
food stalls, and the like will accept e-SUICA as payment.
In order to set it up, you need to have a credit card set up in your Apple wallet.
I had one set up already, but it had foreign transaction fees, so I decided to get
the Apple Card, a virtual MasterCard that has no annual fees, no foreign transaction fees,
and gives 2% cash back on Apple Pay purchases. It's a good deal and I've been using it
regularly since we got back from Japan.
Our phones were also immensely useful when it came to translation, as Japan does not spoil
English-speakers the way that many other places do, not to mention the utterly foreign writing.
Fortunately, the state of art of online translation available on our devices is quite amazing.
Not only can you type in phrases and have them translated into Japanese text, you can
speak phrases and your phone will speak it back in Japanese. The apps are oriented to conversation,
so that you can pass it back and forth, and it will translate their response back to English.
In many tourist-welcoming shops, the staff will have their devices with Google Translate
at the ready. It also has a visual mode where you can open up your camera through the
translation app, and it will replace any Japanese text in its view with English text.
It is truly amazing how far this has come. The
Babel fish is practically here!
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